Appliances
This page has sections on:
Energy-Saving Purchasing Tips • Refrigerators • Dishwashers • Clothes Washers • Clothes Dryers • Combination Washer-Dryer
Appliances are the second largest consumer of energy in the house after heating & cooling. The information provided below is a summary of several sources, where you can find further information. These include:
Energy-Saving Purchasing Tips
Look for the Energy Star® label. The most most energy-efficient appliances in any product category qualify as Energy Star models, exceeding the energy efficiency minimums set by the federal government.
If you remember only one rule when you shop, remember to look for the Energy Star label.
But there are still significant differences in energy consumption among Energy Star-labeled appliances, especially since the government uses manufacturers’ own test data, which in some cases has been found to be inaccurate.
Use the EnergyGuide label. All new appliances must carry the EnergyGuide label, either on the appliance itself or on the packaging. The label allows you to compare the typical annual energy consumption and operating cost of different models — as provided by manufacturers — of any type of appliance you’re thinking of buying.

Image source: “My Bad Pad” blog
Get the right size. Over-sized air conditioners, water heaters, and refrigerators waste energy and money, and often don’t perform as well (for example, air conditioners too big for the space run less and therefore don’t adequately dehumidify.)
A list of appliances can be downloaded from the Energy Star website. Other sites like Top Ten also help with selection of energy-efficient appliances.
Locally, Lowe’s in Chapel Hill is the 2010 Energy Star Sustained Excellence Retail Partner with a wide variety of energy-efficient appliances.
Government and other subsidies:
In July 2008, North Carolina enacted legislation (H.B. 2436) establishing a “sales tax holiday” for certain Energy Star-certified products. Energy Star appliances sold between 12:01 a.m. on the 1st Friday of November to & 11:59 p.m. on the following Sunday qualify for sales tax exemption.
Another program, the North Carolina Appliance Rebates, paid out nearly $8.9 million in federally-funded rebates for the purchase of energy-efficient appliances. That program was closed on December 31, 2010 when all of North Carolina’s funds had been reserved. For more information, download the North Carolina state appliance program fact sheet (PDF).
Refrigerators
Refrigerators typically consume the most energy of any household appliance other than the heating, cooling, and hot water systems, amounting to 14% of electricity use on average. Refrigerator efficiency has improved dramatically over the past 20 years, driven by the National Appliance Energy Conservation Act of 1987. An average new refrigerator with automatic defrost and top-mounted freezer uses about half the energy used by its 1990 predecessor. So if your refrigerator needs repairs or is nearing the end of its expected 15-year life, it may make good economic sense to replace it now.
When buying a new refrigerator, consider models that use at least 20% less electricity than required by federal law. Models that are 20%, 25%, and 30% more efficient than that minimum may qualify for rebates.
Here in Tar Heel country, we like to have a spare fridge for holiday dinners or with local brew ready for the next big game, resulting in many 2nd refrigerators idling high in the garage heat. Perhaps the greatest impact on energy consumption is room temperature. A 10°F increase in temperature can increase energy consumption by 40%! That’s why it’s best to place second refrigerators in cool or temperature-controlled locations, and keep them turned off unless needed.
Refrigerator style and energy use
The vast majority of refrigerators in the U.S. are combination refrigerator/freezers. (In Europe, over 40% of households have separate refrigerator/freezer units.)
The most common configuration of refrigerator is the Top Mount model, with the freezer unit on top of a larger refrigeration unit (also called a Top Freezer or Top-Bottom style). This style accounts for about 70% of all units sold. The increasingly popular Side-by-Side style generally offers a larger freezer compartment and the perception of requiring less bending, but it consumes about 25% more electricity on average than a Top Mount.
A Bottom Mount (or Bottom-Top) model has its freezer on the bottom. For newer models, energy consumption is slightly better than that of Top-Bottom units.
A few refrigerator/freezers have a single outside door, with a separate internal door for the freezer.
Factors affecting energy use
- Size — In general, the larger the refrigerator, the more energy it consumes. Each additional cubic foot of space (above the 14-cubic-foot minimum for “full size”) adds 20-30 kWh of electricity consumption per year.
- Defrost mode — Before the new efficiency standards took effect, auto-defrost refrigerators consumed nearly twice as much electricity as manual-defrost models; today they still use roughly 30% more electricity.
- Ice Makers — Automatic ice makers use a heater to release cubes from their mold and can increase fridge energy use by 10-15%. Through-the-door ice dispensers create an area of low insulation in the door that adds to energy consumption.
- Moisture control devices — or “antisweat” heaters, included on some models to prevent condensation on the refrigerator, can add 10% to energy use. In most climates this heater can be turned off (if a moisture control switch is included) during all but the most humid periods of the year.
- Door Openings — Actually, door openings have less impact than people usually think. Most studies estimate door openings as typically accounting for less than 10% of refrigerator energy consumption. Of course, this is still significant.
- Room Temperature — Perhaps the greatest impact on energy consumption is room temperature. A 10°F increase in temperature can increase energy consumption by 40%! That’s why it is best to place second refrigerators in basements or other cool locations.
- Refrigerator Temperature — The temperature inside the refrigerator will typically vary the energy consumption by about 20% from the warmest to the coolest setting.
A list of refrigerators can be downloaded from the EnergyStar website. Other sites like Top Ten also help with selection of energy-efficient appliances.
Energy-Saving Tips
- Keep your refrigerator at 35 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Place your fridge in a cool place away from a heat source such as an oven, a dishwasher, or direct sunlight from a window.
- Allow air circulation behind the fridge.
- Keep the condenser coils clean if you have an older model. Read the user’s manual to learn how to safely clean coils. Coil cleaning brushes can be purchased at most hardware stores.
- Check the door seals or gaskets on your refrigerator/freezer. You can do this by putting a dollar bill in the door as you close it and see if it holds firmly in place. Or, put a bright flashlight inside the refrigerator and direct the light toward a section of the door seal. With the door closed and the room darkened, inspect for light through the crack. If they don’t seal tightly, replace them.
- Minimize the amount of time the refrigerator door is open.
- Let the door close comfortably. If you’ve stuffed that last awkward item in the fridge and you’re not sure it closed well, it probably didn’t. Rearrange the shelf and make sure the door closes well.
- Check Power-Saver Switch. Many refrigerators have small heaters built into the walls to prevent moisture from condensing on the outer surface — as if the refrigerator doesn’t have to work hard enough already! On some units, this feature can be turned off with an energy-saver or power-saver switch. Unless you have noticeable condensation, keep this switch on the energy-saving setting.
- Manual-defrost and partial automatic-defrost refrigerators and freezers should be defrosted on a regular basis. The buildup of ice on the coils inside the unit means that the compressor has to run longer to maintain cold temperatures, wasting energy. If you live in a very hot, humid climate and don’t use air conditioning, defrosting may be required quite frequently with a manual-defrost model. After defrosting, you might be able to adjust the thermostat to a warmer setting, further saving energy.
- To keep your refrigerator from working too hard, let hot foods cool, cover foods, label items for quick identification, and keep your freezer full.
- Thaw frozen foods in the fridge. They’ll help cool the fridge as they defrost, and it’s better for food safety.
Dishwashers
Dishwashers in the U.S. use 24,000 GWh (gigawatt-hours) of energy per year. There are technological and behavioral opportunities to increase their energy efficiency.
Technology options include dishwashers with cold-water inputs, more efficient dish configurations, and flow-through heating. Water efficiency is important; improved water efficiency increases energy efficiency since about 60% of energy used goes to water heating.
Thanks to national efficiency standards, new models use less than half the water of those made before 1994. New standards for dishwashers restrict energy and water use even more.
Efficient dishwashers use less hot water, have energy-efficient motors, and use sensors to determine the wash cycle length and water temperature needed to do the job. The newest Energy Star dishwashers are 25% more efficient than the minimum federal standards. Replacing a pre-1994 dishwasher with an Energy Star model can save $25 a year on utility costs.
Energy-Saving Purchasing Tips
- Choose a dishwasher with a “light wash” or “energy-saving” wash cycle. It uses less water and operates for a shorter period of time for dishes that are just slightly soiled.
- Look for dishwashers that have an energy-saving cycle that allows dishes to be air-dried with circulation fans, rather than heat-dried with energy-wasting heating coils.
A list of dishwashers can be downloaded from the Energy Star website. Other sites like Top Ten also help with selection of energy-efficient appliances.
Energy-Saving Tips
You can save a great deal of energy by changing the way you operate your dishwasher.
- Avoid Hand-Washing — Studies show clearly that modern dishwashers, when used to maximize energy-saving features, outperform all but the most frugal hand washers.
- Scrape, Don’t Rinse — Most people pre-rinse dishes before loading, even though dishwashers bought within the last 5–10 years do a superb job of cleaning even heavily soiled dishes. If you find you must rinse dishes first, use cold water.
- Follow Manufacturer Instructions — Completely fill the racks to optimize water and energy use, but allow proper water circulation for adequate cleaning.
- Wash Only Full Loads — The dishwasher uses the same amount of water whether half-full or completely full, so it pays to wait for a full load. If you find that it takes a day or two, use the rinse-and-hold feature common on newer models. This prevents build-up of dried-on food, and saves time and water compared to pre-rinsing each item. The rinse feature typically uses only 1-2 gallons of water.
- Use Energy-Saving Cycle Options — Select the lowest-energy cycle that will do the job. Use the no-heat/air-dry feature on your dishwasher if it has one.
- Turn Down the Water Heater Temperature — Since the early 1990s, most dishwashers in the U.S. have been sold with built-in heaters to boost water temperature to 140–145°F, the temperature recommended by manufacturers for optimum dishwashing performance. The advantage of the booster heater is that you can turn down your water heater thermostat to 120°F (typically half-way between the “medium” and “low” settings).
Clothes Washers
An efficient new washer saves money on electricity, water, and water-heating energy. It can cut energy and water use by up to 70% & 50%, respectively. And it’s likely to get clothes cleaner!
Testing by Consumer Reports finds front-loaders pretty consistently the most efficient, as well as the best performers. The horizontal-axis machine is like a dryer, with a front-loading door and a horizontal drum. It tumbles the clothes into water at the bottom, a gentler motion than the central drum agitation used by top loaders (therefore also extending the life of your clothes). It can spin out more water, saving on drying time.
Full-size horizontal-axis machines use only 20-25 gallons of water per load. American households average almost 400 laundry loads annually. At about 40 gallons of water per full load for conventional washers, an efficient washer means big cost savings, as well as conserving many thousands of gallons of potable water for our drought-prone community.
Choosing your washer
Begin with Energy Star qualifiers, but since those are based on manufacturers’ self-reports, you’ll want to check independent tests and reviews, too. Consumer Reports tests for water- and energy-efficiency, but you have to subscribe to look at their ratings. (At about $4/month online, it’s worth a tryout before choosing an appliance that is so costly to buy and to use).
- Remember that the EnergyGuide label compares front-loading models with other front loaders, not with conventional top-loading machines.
- ENERGY STAR clothes washers range from about 1.6 to about 2.9 cubic feet (the typical large-capacity washer is about 2.7 cubic feet). A family usually needs a big machine. A smaller one may work for a one-or-two-person household, and will be more economical if you usually do small loads. (But if you wash comforters, you’ll want a large model.)
- Look for high-speed spin cycles that spin fabric drier.
- Choose a washer that allows control of water level and temperature. And look for energy-saving features like pre-soak, “suds saver,” and cold water settings.
- Don’t be misled. Names like “Energy Miser,” “Energy Saver,” and “Fuel Saver” don’t guarantee savings. Compare EnergyGuide labels and seek out independent verification.
- Check for rebates. Call your utility company to see if they are giving rebates on high-efficiency models, and ask your salesperson about them.
CNET consumer reviews – Washers & dryers
consumersearch.com – Washing Machine Reviews
Makes recommendations on basis of compiled expert & consumer reviews.
Goodhousekeeping.com – Washers and Dryers It seems you must subscribe to see most of their test results, too — but they offer a 2-year guarantee on items that get their Seal of Approval.
epinions (consumer reviews) – Washing Machines
Washer Usage Tips
Clothes Dryers
The best dryers are cutting-edge solar devices — clotheslines and carousels are the cheapest and most energy-efficient dryers ever created. Devotees swear by the fresh results of drying their clothes in sun and breezes.
While some homeowners’ associations and planned communities have covenants against hanging clothes outside, the energy savings and environmental benefits surely trump that more frivolous community standard. It would be worth challenging, since you may well find that the majority support you.
Choosing your dryer
Clothes dryers don’t have Energy Star ratings, but there are important factors to consider in making your choice.
Consumersearch – Dryer Reviews Recommendations from compiled expert & consumer reviews.
Consumer Reports.- Dryers Gas & electric. There are also related community forums. Ratings are only available to subscribers.
epinions (consumer reviews) – Dryers
Wikipedia – interesting, alternative dryer types
Dryer Usage Tips
Combination Washer-Dryer
Combination washer-dryers are used extensively in Europe and Asia, where homes are commonly smaller and space at a premium.
Also known as “combos,” these appliances wash and dry all in the same machine, with no need to move the laundry.
All-in-one combo units are made by various manufacturers, including LG, Thor, Summit, and Fagor. (Some of the more familiar brands, e.g., Frigidaire and Whirlpool, have combination washer/dryers that are essentially two stacked machines — still great space-savers!)
All-in-ones also usually require less energy and water and may be ventless — a real plus for easy installation and maintenance.
Information compiled by Rainer Dammers and Fritiz Ross.
- Up to 90% of clothes-washing cost comes from heating the water, so use cold water whenever possible. It saves clothes as well as energy — extends fabric life and doesn’t set stains as hot water does. (Use a detergent suitable for cold.) Always use cold water in the rinse cycle.
- Wash full loads (but don’t overload), unless using a small-load attachment or variable water levels.
- Use the right amount of detergent. Extra suds work the machine harder and use more H2O and energy.
- Presoak or use the soak cycle for heavily soiled clothes, avoiding two washings.
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If you have spin options, choose high spin speed or extended spin to spin clothes drier.
- Check whether your laundry room has a gas or electric hookup. If a gas line is already run to your home, you’re in luck: a gas dryer costs $50-150 more than a comparable electric one to purchase, but about half as much to operate. (At the top of the line, comparable gas and electric dryers are priced alike.) Adding a gas line and a vent to operate a gas dryer, however, may cost more than your operating cost savings.
- Look for a clothes dryer with a moisture sensor that automatically shuts off the machine when your clothes are dry. Not only does this save energy; it reduces wear and tear on clothes caused by over-drying.
- While the best dryers have moisture sensors in the drum, others estimate dryness with a thermostat for exhaust air. Compared with timed drying, you can save about 10% with a thermostat sensor, 15% with a moisture sensor.
- Look for a dryer with a cycle that includes a cool-down period, sometimes known as a “perma-press” cycle. In the last few minutes of the cycle, unheated air is blown through the tumbling clothes, taking advantage of residual heat.
- Beware low-value, costly “bells and whistles,” such as: redundant specialty cycles (“speed dry” — not needed if you have temperature controls), stainless steel drum (adds value to washers, not dryers).
- Locate your dryer in a heated space. Putting it in a cold or damp basement or an unheated garage will make the dryer work harder and less efficiently.
- Make sure your dryer is vented properly. If you vent the exhaust outside, use the straightest, shortest metal duct available. Flexible vinyl duct isn’t recommended because it restricts airflow, can be crushed, and may not withstand high temperatures.
- Check the outside dryer exhaust vent periodically. If it doesn’t close tightly, replace it with one that does to keep outside air from leaking in — reducing heating and cooling bills.
- Clean the lint filter after every load to improve air circulation. Regularly clean the lint from vent hoods. A clogged vent or filter not only increases energy use dramatically, it’s a serious fire hazard. According to the U.S. Fire Administration, dryer fires account for 80% of fires in residential buildings, with “failure to clean” the leading factor.
- Dry only full, but not over-full, loads. Small loads are wasteful; over-full ones don’t allow air to circulate and super-slow drying will wind up being wasteful, too.
- Dry similar types of clothes together. Lightweight synthetics, for example, dry much more quickly than bath towels and natural fiber clothes.
- Dry two or more loads in a row, taking advantage of the dryer’s retained heat.
- Use the cool-down cycle (perma-press cycle) to allow the clothes to finish drying with the residual heat in the dryer.
- Another thing worth doing is capturing the dryer heat inside from late autumn through winter. Here’s one instruction on how to do it: Recycle heat from the clothes dryer
Combination Washer-Dryer
Combination washer-dryers are used extensively in Europe and Asia, where homes are commonly smaller and space at a premium.
Also known as “combos,” these appliances wash and dry all in the same machine, with no need to move the laundry.
All-in-one combo units are made by various manufacturers, including LG, Thor, Summit, and Fagor. (Some of the more familiar brands, e.g., Frigidaire and Whirlpool, have combination washer/dryers that are essentially two stacked machines — still great space-savers!)
All-in-ones also usually require less energy and water and may be ventless — a real plus for easy installation and maintenance.
Information compiled by Rainer Dammers and Fritzi Ross.
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